First Kathmandu

  • Choosing
    These are my first full day's photos in Kathmandu. My guide and hostess is Lajana Manadhar, director of Lumanti, Support Group for Shelter.

2005 Nepal Trip

  • Space_time
    Travelertrish left at the end of July for a six-week trip to France, Nepal, and a weekend in London. Come along for the photographic ride!

Normal Monday

I'm going to try to begin posting here about my job. What I do, how I do it, what my days look like. I may have some thoughtful ideas, but for now, I just want to post a list of what went by as I had a regular Monday:

  • Reconfigured the fax machine so it will print confirmation of faxes sent and received.
  • Set up a meeting with our education coordinator, set myself a reminder to remind her.
  • Looked at blip.tv and revver.com and thought about video.
  • Looked at Science Collaborative Framework and thought about online collaboration.
  • Fixed a page on our web site.
  • Did a bunch of data entries to the database, Salesforce, including some phone discussions with a partner or two about who to talk to at their house.
  • Set up a meeting with the Red Cross to hear about their international programs.
  • Had a meeting with a data entry volunteer who can really help with data cleaning.
  • Did probably two total hours of training on donations and recurring donations and pledges with the staff member who is most responsible for it.
  • Worked with a board member to use a Google doc for collaborating. This was a phone consultation.

Sort of mind-boggling, huh? Normally, I'd attribute the training with Mattie to the day's accomplishment, but not really count anything else. Wild and amazing, this great job.

Movie-Making Class I

I didn't call it Digital Storytelling. I was trying to reach a low-income market, and decided that the fashionable term wouldn't do. People who want to make movies at the grass-roots level don't need the fancy term. They need to know just what they are getting themselves in for.

Commitment: We started the class by telling the group that we would be showing up for seven weeks of Saturdays and that we expected them to do the same. No missing class. Period. "A death in the family...yours" would be the only excuse. About the third class, Ayo didn't show, hadn't called, and left a message that her mother was sick and so she had to do to Atlanta. I sent her a very stern email saying that she needed to get ahold of me during the week to be caught up but that a second absence would mean dropping the class. She never came back, never called, and that was that.

The team: We put together a team of teachers: me, Jean-Francois, Joe and Mike. Last summer, we recruited a young woman, Alice, but she dropped out, citing all the work she was doing for a photography class she was taking. Really, she thought I was being too bossy and she was probably right. I had some definite ideas about how to do this and while it wasn't My Way or the Highway, it was in fact, My Way or the Secondary Road.

Mike teaches audio editing using Audacity, a free program you can download from the 'net. JF has been using amateur video techniques in his French classes. Joe, now a Presbyterian preacher, used to be a filmmaker and has done one of these programs with at-risk youth at some point in his Other Life. Last week, I recruited Alfonso, who makes little videos for a nearby university. He came in Saturday for the first time, and went around critiquing everybody's movie. He had great suggestions for everybody.

The class: We had ten or eleven applicants, but by the time we assembled in mid-January, we had eight students. Two are on Social Security disability. Three are low-income. One is a teenager. His single mother joined the class since she was going to have to drive him over every week and the trek is too long for coming and going. Three are African-American. Two are government employees, one with the IRS, the other with the Veterans Administratin. The VA lady is a veteran herself. A more diverse group you couldn't get if you advertised for it.

Community building: The first class, mostly run by Joe and after the stern commitment speech, we started telling stories. Joe and I had decided on four possible themes for the movie we would produce: Childhood, Jobs and Finances, My Hero, and Home. So we went around the room, all of us teachers including ourselves, and told a short anecdote on each topic. The idea was to find the topic that had the most "heat," the most energy, the most visual possibility, the closest to the bone. We illustrated what we meant with our own stories. We wanted action, not philosophizing. We wanted stuff we could actually create, not technical impossibilities. What came out of those first two classes was something we hoped, but didn't actually know would work: we created a community. We created a group of people who would help one another, who would accept one another's creativity, who would respect and support one another.

It was the first unhoped-for dividend. People faced with having to actually produce from the place of their creativity are often nervous, shy, afraid even. Just putting their stories into the world is a fragile and delicate process, fraught with old naysaying voices. Add to that the issue of technology and you have a tightrope walk. Our teenager wasn't sure he had anything to say. His mom feels she leads a mundane life. Our African-American guy comes out of a long history of creative failure. He told a story about never learning the guitar because every time he had one, he soon pawned it. One of our disabled folks can't see without a magnifying glass, gets short of breath when she needs to give speeches and can't manage to get to class with all the images, videos and audio files she'll need in one folder. Our bureaucrats are the most creatively constipated of the whole bunch. "I can't," they have each said at one time or another.

But we made a community together, and each and every one of them has created a movie with a story from real life. 

The tools: We got a deal on a groups of FlipVideos, little digital cameras that have one on switch and one record switch and one playback switch. Simpler to use you don't get. The videos that come out are, in the words of my filmmaking buddy in India, "organic." That is unsophisticated, not the sharpest images, and not the best sound. We don't care. We're making grass-roots videos, and the whole idea is that this should be within the means of just about everybody. For a low-income person, a $150 video camera is still a hefty investment, but it is the first time this kind of technology is within her reach.

We bought some sound equipment-- little voice recorders that, like the Flips, plug directly into the computer's USB port. Olympuses. We got microphones to go with them. As it turned out, Mike brought some equipment from the university where he works and served as sound engineer for us all. One by one, he took them into the "sound studio," also-known-as the ladies restroom. Our second day of recording, we had a professional visiting. Carol Andrews is a local newscaster (and a buddy of mine) who stopped by to do an intro and conclusion to Terry's story. He framed his tale as if it were a newscast. Carol helped us drape the "studio" with blankets from the thrift store and VOILA, a sound studio!

We bought an LCD projector...partly because the nonprofit where we were working needed one anyway, and I frankly don't understand how you can run a technology course without one. We need a screen too...but your basic grass-roots folks can find one at a yard sale for $10. That's where we got the one we're using. We've used the projector for the two actual tutorials we've offered the class: Windows Movie-Maker and Audacity. In future classes, we'll refine the use of this projector. Jean-Francois, who taught Movie-Maker, realized that we need to take more time but have the students on their computers actually following along as he demonstrates the features of the software.

We are using Windows Movie-Maker and Audacity, since most people have the first on their PCs and everybody can download the second. This makes the editing software 100% free. We are also using WM Converter because for some reason, the movies that come off of the Flips don't play well with Movie-Maker on the machines at the nonprofit where we're doing the class. File conversion was Mike's idea the first time we tried to watch the first videos.

Next: The curriculum

Demonstrating the Power of Jing

I'm showing Jean-Francais here how it is possible to use Jing to show his students where some place is on Google earth. You video tape yourself on the internet and then post the link, as I did here. There's a button that is too small to see to go to Full Screen. It's in the bottom right-hand corner of the video. Small square. I'm trying to get the image bigger, but so far, no luck.

Bean Counting

My inspiration, colleague and friend Gilda out in San Diego (and what I wouldn't give to spirit her over to a house next door to me!) makes an interesting suggestion about how to cost out what it is you are actually spending.

I was musing that it would be cheating to bring my laundry over to my own house to get it done, but maybe not if I took it to my son's house, since he lives at about the same level I'll be living when I move to the West End.

Gilda makes the point that all those kinds of barters should be figured in as "in-kind" costs, giving me a much clearer picture of how high on the food chain I'm actually living. If I don't pay for my own washer and dryer and electricity or gas to run them, then lower on the ladder is simply washing everything by hand. If I barter or in the case of Raf, just show up at his door because I'm his mother...then the cost of those appliances is still there, somebody else is donating that to me-- in this case, the Association of Retarded Citizens of High Point, which provides the subsidy so Raf can afford his housing.

When you run a nonprofit, many grants from foundations and the government require some sort of "matching" amount, much of which can be provided in "in-kind" donations. Sweat equity, for instance.

Gilda says that when I go visit my "real" house on the weekends, that should be considered an in-kind cost, since somebody has to pay that rent and utilities.

I told Gilda that I know she's absolutely correct, but there is a deep laziness in my bones that balks at all that accounting. I need a bean counter at my elbow, a volunteer accountant. But wait! That would be an in-kind expense as well!

First Housing Tentacles

I started the search for affordable housing by calling Diane Westmoreland of S.H.A.R.E. of North Carolina. I don't seem to find a web site for them, so maybe I need to offer to do one! Anyway, Diane is the one who does their publicity, and they are the most visible force for affordable housing in the West End neighborhood, so I thought it was a good idea to start there.

SHARE builds homes in the neighborhood, nice places that are eligible for various housing support programs offered by the city, state and feds. I'm not looking for a place to buy, however, and neither are most of the folks who are looking for housing in the West End. I need a place to rent.

"I think it might be possible to find you a nice place for $800," Diane said to me early in our conversation.

"Uh...no...$800 is what I have to live on all month," I clarified. Oh.

The West End has a total of just over 600 places to live, including some apartments, lots of individual houses and a few duplexes. There are over 170 empty houses in the neighborhood now. I know because we do a mailing to every house in the neighborhood, and we're down to about 430 that the Post Office can deliver our newsletters to. Many of the empty places are just that...plain old unoccupied, not on the market to rent or sell. Just nobody living there. As you can imagine, that's part of the neighborhood problem.

Don Stevenson, my former executive director, and I toured one of them a few months back. There was a big old hole in the roof, water damage, and lots of debris around. It was for sale for $25,000. Later, some workmen showed up, put on a new roof and now the place is for sale again.

Jim Summey, the guy I call "the crime fighting preacher," board chair and acting executive director of West End Ministries told me at staff meeting that his church, English Road Baptist, owns a place I can rent for $250. I haven't seen it, but it is definitely in my price range. I figure that with my take-home pay ($396.19 every two weeks), I shouldn't pay more than $300 a month in rent, figuring to put at least $100 a month in utilities. I am probably not going to have an all-electric home or anything exorbitant in the electricity department, but I have to have enough left over for food and some gas for the van.

Iris, a great West End resident and teacher in my computer center, tells me there's a two-bedroom place next door to her that is going for $330 a month, but I don't need that much space and at that price, with utilities, I'm afraid I'd be eating rice and beans the WHOLE month, not just the two weeks when I'll be paying rent.

My husband Jean-Francois is not planning to do this experiment with me. In fact, since his semester ends at the beginning of April, he's likely to skip town for a couple of the months so as not to miss me too much over here on Blain Street. Darn. I was hoping for that easy camaraderie I once found in Iceland, where I met a married couple who lived next door to one another. Seemed to work beautifully for them. Everybody got his own space, but they were also near enough to have dinner, share a movie or a play, and enjoy each other's company.

I'll be walking the streets of the neighborhood soon, checking out the For Rent sign. For now though, with the temperatures over 90 degrees Farenheit, about 33 Celsius.

I'm also thinking about how to eat cheaply. I'm wondering if there might be a group of women in the neighborhood who'd be willing to contribute to pay the gas for us to go to the farmer's market in Thomasville. It's a great place with a wonderful Asian atmosphere and low, low prices. I also heard about this site, www.angelfoodministries.com. For $30, you get a pile of food, and I checked it out. I have no interest in the breaded chicken breasts or the instant mashed potatoes, so maybe this isn't for me.

Iris reminded me that I'll be eligible for the every-other-month food pantry box, the Friday bread giveaway, and the Thursday community meal offered by West End Ministries. Maybe that and the farmer's market will be enough to get me through. I'll need to do laundry, and I'll be sorely tempted to bring my stuff over here on the weekends and do it at home. But that would be cheating somehow, so I'll have to think about that. My son Raf, who lives on about this amount, $800 a month on SSI Disability, has a washer and dryer in his apartment. Or maybe I can barter some kind of a deal with someone in the neighborhood. I'll mow your lawn and you let me use your washing machine. Hmmm...I'm looking for swaps, barters, connections, and deals.

There's lots to explore in this Experiment in Frugal Living.

The Experiment in Frugal Living

I'm a VISTA volunteer. That means many things-- some simply personal to me, others Federal policy-- but the general idea is that you spend a year or two dedicated fighting poverty by building up a local grassroots organization. This is not a job where we play with the kids in the day care center or we serve up the food at the soup kitchen. This is the job where we create the day care center, find an advisory board, work on structure, publicity, fund raising, volunteer recruitment and then move on to another project.

I work at West End Ministries in High Point, NC as a technology maven. Last year, I created a computer school, started a paper and online newsletter, redid the web site, instituted an eBay store, populated a free but well-designed database with mailing addresses, emails and donations, and served as the organization's technology director.

But something has been bothering me all along. The basic premise of both the Peace Corps and the VISTA project is that one lives in the communities one is serving, at the poverty level of the folks one is serving. Okay, you could say that I live in what we euphemistically call "core city," meaning the poor parts of town. My house is in the geographic region and we do have some problem houses around us as well as a burgeoning gang issue...but it isn't the West End.

So after a lot of soul-searching and waffling, I've decided to go live in the West End on the salary I make. I make $800 a month. Eight hundred. Last year I used my salary to take me back to one of my favorite regions of the world, Nepal and the Himalayan mountains of India, where I worked with several nonprofit organizations to bring technology to bear on their missions-- web sites for a disability organization and documentation of a Rotary Club health camp (funded by my own nonprofit organization, Worlds Touch), with photographs and videos of local doctors donating a day of their time to the people of a remote village far from any medical care whatsoever.

This year, I want to take four months of my service with VISTA to live in the West End and manage on the money I make.

"So you want to find a place for $800 a month? " asked Diane Westmoreland of S.H.A.R.E. of NC, an agency dedicated to providing affordable housing in our town. Diane was the first person I called to start a search for housing I could afford on my salary. "It will be difficult, but we can probably help you find something."

"Oh, no," I told her. "I have $800 for EVERYTHING. Housing, food, transportation, utilities. Everything."

"But your husband will contribute, right?" She knows my husband is a college professor at the local university.

"No! That's the whole idea. I want to see if I can live on my salary."

Actually, I want more than that. I want to see if I can do it AND create a bond with my neighbors...I want to build community, something I found devilishly difficult last year. We got that computer school off the ground, but we don't have any community members on the advisory board, and this summer I lost the only community member who was teaching in the school. She's taken over the child care of her neice's boy and has to be home in the evenings. We give a neighborhood association meeting and nobody comes...or, more accurately, the usually ten suspects show up. We walk the streets, knocking on doors, and everybody seems closed up, locked in and suspicious...or apathetic...or, well, stoned or drunk or both.

"But that's a terrible neighborhood!" I've already heard four times.

No it isn't. It's a neighborhood where there are lots of transients, where people land on the way down or the way up on the social scale, where there used to be a steady solid blue collar furniture industry worker population but the furniture industry has moved to China. It's an old story, neighborhood blight, deterioration. West End Ministries has been fighting -- and making some progress -- the downhill slide of this neighborhood. I want to spotlight the neighborhood with this experiment, to focus on the problems of living on a miniscule budget there, and to challenge myself and my neighbors to grab more LIFE, even on less MONEY.

I don't pretend that I am without a safety net. I have advantages, many many of them, that my less fortunate neighbors do not. I have a job. I have health insurance (albeit only if I get sick, not the "wellness" approach.) I have a place to get away for the weekends (my regular house.) And I have years and years of frugal traveling and frugal living experience under my belt, having CHOSEN that way of life. It makes a big difference, and I know this, if you don't have a choice. Of course, I also believe that all of us have more choices than we generally see, and I'm no exception.

Tomorrow: First problem: Housing.

Computer Training


Computer Training, originally uploaded by travelertrish.

Ramesh Prajapati, director of Resource Center for Rehab and Development (RCRD) and Ramesh Shrestha, director of Community-Based Rehab of Bhaktapur are all ears when we are discussing how technology can work for their respective organizations.

I spent three weeks in Bhaktapur with them this summer, and produced two web sites using WordPress and Flickr. I left them with a week's training under their belts as well as an operations manual that gave them complete control over their own web sites.

Royal Square


La PlaceSmall, originally uploaded by travelertrish.

On this first day of the kingless country here, this is a photo of the Royal Square in Bhaktapur.

So I spent the morning in a soup of mixed rock music, hip hop, sappy Nepali love songs and some pretty raunchy American stuff...at the cyber I've adopted. I can hook my laptop up here, which means that everything EVERYTHING E.V.E.R.Y.T.H.I.N.G is faster. I've managed to complete the Community-Based Rehabilitation web site this morning. I had all the pages written, but I needed to upload the photos to Flickr, since they had been uploaded to Pushpa's account and he isn't around to link to, and then I needed to upload the text to the pages I've already created on WordPress.

Here's the link:

http://cbrbhaktapur.wordpress.com/

I could use some extra eyes on this, so anyone who has a little time and can page through and just note down any problems you see...this would be greatly appreciated. I'll get Ramesh to do it this afternoon, but the more eyes we can get on this, the more likely to catch some glaring horrible problem.

I would also like to tell you about a way somebody among you might want to help out here. Yesterday, we visited Dipendra, a guy in his 20s with a really severe case of cerebral palsy. He is really a twisted tangle of limbs confined for the most part to a tiny palette in his family home. His mother takes care of him, but there is literally no household income. They have nothing like Social Security Disability here. The thing is, this is a guy who has an excellent brain. He thinks, he squeezed out words in Newari, Nepali and...ENGLISH! He watches tv. He has opinions.

They've had doctors from the West look at Dipendra and they all just basically say, "Some kids just have to live with their limitations."

It costs about 500 Rupees a month to support this family. That's less than $10! So...would anyone like to come up with a year of support for this guy? If so, make your way to my Profile and click on the Worlds Touch donate page. (This is a bit of a gray area for a nonprofit...but we're talking such a tiny amount that I bet the you-know-what-department will let it pass under their radar for a good cause.) If you do it while I'm still here...until Friday...I can hand Ramesh the cash before we leave.

The Force Bless You.

Puppets


Puppets, originally uploaded by travelertrish.

We will donate this batch of beautiful puppets to the Thimi Day Care Center for the multiple-handicapped children there. One day just before I left for this trip, a lovely lady walked into my office at West End Ministries and handed me a sack with all these great little puppets. When I showed them yesterday to Ramesh, the coordinator of the community-based rehabilitation work, he was really thrilled. He said they often MAKE puppets with the kids and these will truly delight them. I personally love this sort of transfer from one culture to another. Worlds Touch...our world touches yours...it doesn't grab it, fix it, dominate it, or be dominated by it. Touch. Like these cool puppets. Click on the photo and then on the little album in the right margin to see all the puppets.

Surya, Ramesh and Ganga

Surya, left, Ramesh and Ganga. Surya heads Resource Center for Rehabilitation and Development (FOREVER shortened to RCRD) and Ramesh heads Community Based Rehabilitation (CBR). In a word, RCRD does the training -- for family members, field workers, teachers, social workers and government officials-- and CBR does the direct service to people with disabilities.

Here it is, Sunday-day-off, and I have access to the office internet connection. RCRD's web site is finished for the time being. That is, it has everything they wanted and more. Some of you, bless your hearts, have already visited. Surya was tickled pink to learn he'd already had TEN visitors-- and WordPress excludes visits from your own computer, so these are YOU folks dropping by. Very cool. One web site down and one to go.

So now I have all afternoon, if we could all stand it, to write about living and serving in Bhaktapur, Nepal. I started to say "working," instead of "serving," but...and then I raised my eyes to the bulletin board in front of me and it says, "Work is not only about making a living; work is also about making a difference." This is Ramesh's desk. Ramesh runs the part of the organization here that does direct service to people with disabilities, mostly children. I just went through the photos for his web site and this is a batch of photos that are hard to get through. We're pretty squeamish as a people about disability, especially severe disfigurement.

This culture goes a long way to excluding children with disabilities, even from their own families. There is a deep shame about having a disabled child, and one thread in the culture says that this must be punishment for sins in a past life, or punishment for the family's sins. None of this is all that far from our own experience. And we have the advantage of surgery and braces and physical therapy and insurance, all of which contributes to there being a less VISIBLE handicapped population in our culture.

Even so, as the mother of a child with a very invisible (until the social situation exposes it to mostly typical lack of understanding and rejection) disability, as the friend to other mothers with children and sisters with disabilities... this particular job seems entirely appropriate. It helps that Surya is a guy who really "gets" technology. I could live here and feed him with a spoon. Would that my local org had that sort of intuitive insight into the value of technology. I've seen enough of the whole spectrum to realize that West End Ministries isn't off the map entirely, but these people here are "early adopters," while WEM is more in the "lagging back" position, with a few outright "resisters."

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